Monday, May 12, 2008

A Guest blogger too!

First one is mine...second is my lovely guest blogger Kim

Hello! Sad news to start: my postmate's computer died, so after this one (I'm using another volunteer's laptop) my posts may be far less eloquent…since they are oh so eloquent now! :>) Since I last wrote I've been staying busy, in relative terms. I've planted some more soy with the women's group in my village and given them a presentation about it, and then also planted with a man that lives close to me. The second day I was out planting soy with the women's group we had to clear the land of tons and tons of really tall brush and random other fallen branches, etc… This was fine, and kinda fun, just whacking at things with a little hoe and ripping roots out of the ground and throwing them on a pile. After that we started to plant, which includes taking said small hoe and tilling up the soil. Somewhere within these two actions millions and millions (I would like to say I'm exaggerating…but seriously A LOT) of tiny little flies were disrupted from their in-ground homes and were not pleased. We got ATTACKED! Since the only parts of my body exposed were my hands and face…there was some serious biting going on in these areas. All the other women got really bitten up in the same spots, but…leave it to white skin to be the skin that puffs up and gets all red, and also, leave it to me and my insect loving skin to be bitten in places like my EYELID?! I took a picture of myself as proof…I looked like I got into some intense fight and didn't come out on top. I took myself some Benadryl and passed out for 2 hours before presenting myself to the general public (aka walking outside my house) for commentary on my weak skin. Other than that I attempted to hold a meeting at Mefoup to give our soy presentation, south of here. It was pretty disappointing since we spent a good deal of time in transit (painful transit) and arrived to be informed that everyone had thought the meeting was in the morning. For our efforts (and pains) the 85 year old man whose house we use as our meeting place regaled us with a song about his generation, his wife gave us a live chicken to kill and eat at our leisure, and we got to meander around the village being yelled at by various people for being white! I always find the trip to and from Mefoup one of the most interesting. In order to leave from Ebolowa you have to go to the southernmost point of town to find a car. Finding a car includes standing there, having half the city scream things at you, mottos pretend to run into you, never understanding what's going on, and then finally just getting into a car with 7 other people and off you go! Most recently some guy kept trying to grab my arm and my bag to throw into the car…in order to fend him off I spun around and yelled "If you touch me one more time, I am going to hit you VERY HARD!" and then smiled sweetly…in response he took up some posture straight out of a karate movie and burst out laughing at me…but then went away! So hey…it worked out! The depot for cars (if you can call it that, it's kinda just a big muddy parking lot) always has a surplus of bush meat available. The past few times I've seen a couple of pretty big dead monkeys and an enormous snake for sale. I asked about the monkeys and sadly at 8,500 CFA (like 20 dollars) I couldn't afford it. I need to take a picture of this, I would have found it incredibly sad and disturbing prior to my life here…as I'm sure most of you back home would, and it's interesting how this has just become something normal… Other work things…I went to a party at FONJAK (the organization I really want to work with) and almost had the opportunity to go with them to Campo Ma'an…the national park in the south. Sadly I couldn't because of safety reasons (and since they got into a car accident on this same trip I guess it was a good thing?!) But hopefully at the end of this week I'll be able to work with them since I'll be going up there again. Lastly work wise, we had our provincial meeting in Ebolowa last weekend. Most of the volunteers from the South came here, there ended up being 7 of us total (2 were missing) and we just talked about what we've been doing so far, possible collaborations we want to do together, and then went out in white people force to the nightclub and danced in an impenetrable white people pack. It was a lovely time! :>)

Around the neighborhood it's been pretty good. In the weeks since last returning from Yaounde, I had to laugh at how many people told me things like "where have you been, I thought you went back to America" or "why didn't you come say goodbye to me if you were leaving for so long" or "I heard you were in Bamenda, how was the weather?'…and it wasn't just my neighbors or people who this could possibly be seen as a normal thing to ask. People like the lady who sells me tomatoes at the market, the man who works at the post office, the man who works in the bank, the guy down the street I talked to once in my life…News spreads quick around here! But I guess it is good people would notice if I just disappeared! I've been spending lots of time with the neighbor kids as usual. We spend one afternoon cutting up old plastic bags and making a jump rope out of them, which I tried to explain as "recycling"…but I'm not sure if the term made much sense. Also, they now use the jump rope for other things, like tying it around their heads and then tying themselves together and then running in circles around my house?! Hey…at least it's being used?! :>) My landlady kept coming over and yelling at me that the water was running and I'd keep telling her it wasn't (the fact that it's was not coming out of the tap led me to this revelation which she would not accept even when I showed her!) so we went and found the plumber and sure enough, now there it a hole in the pipe way down the road that needs to be fixed. I harassed the plumber into coming over and finally attaching my sink to the wall (it's been sitting on the floor for months) and he told me he would only come do it for me because I don't have any money, but not for my landlady, because "she is rich". I didn't understand the logic, so I agreed as usual, and then…he didn't show up! So the water situation remains as it apparently always will be! BUT the furniture situation has drastically improved! I am now the proud owner of 4 chairs, a coffee table and a small couch made out of raffia (it's kinda like wicker furniture)!!! I've been enjoying sitting off the floor as of late! Something exciting, one of my friends has started to sell food during lunch time right across the street…I can get ½ of a small fish and a bunch of rice for 100 CFA…which is like 20 cents!!! VERY exciting! Other exciting news: apparently my chief is a sorcerer and kills people. This is what the children have been telling me. And since when Peace Corps staff visited me we had to go talk to the chief, the chief now greets me when I see him on the street and everyone exchanges glances and casts shameful stares at me! Lastly in the house I came upon a lizard in my kitchen above the door treating it like a bathroom…excreting from his lofty perch onto my counters and floor. So what did I do except…video tape it…oh it's a great film!

And…last bit of random news…I met the American missionary couple whom live in town, they invited my postmate and I over to have dinner and watch some movies. I could not believe the things they own (I will make a small list for you): tile floors, oven, refrigerator AND freezer, hot water heater, microwave (first one I've seen in Cameroon), TV, DVD player, real mattress, CAR…it was insane, paradise on earth. We ate cheese and lettuce, drank diet soda, had cake…AMAZING…but it felt very foreign! It kinda scares me to think if all that already felt so out of the norm how coming back to the states will feel where those things are commonplace…but it also made me feel like I was more "integrated" into the lifestyle here, since I've been feeling like it's all too cushy most of the time for me anyways…
Alright…this has been a very very random assortment of news, but thus is life! Thanks for reading!

GUEST BLOGGER!!!

Out of Context

This place is weird. Or maybe it's not. Maybe I'm the weirdo. Who knows? Regardless, the following are some scenes from my life here. In the context of America they are ridiculous. Here, it's called Tuesday.

* * *

Dining Out. The other morning I went to an omelet shack with Kate, another volunteer who lives just outside of Ebolowa, our provincial capital. She's from Wisconsin, by the way. This becomes obvious immediately after talking to her, even when she's not wearing her giant cheese-head hat. Anyway, omelet shacks. Kate and I went to Jackson's (full name: Chez Jackson's International Club—ha! Jealous?) because he makes the best spaghetti omelets in town. We each placed our order—une oeuf spaghetti, si vous plait—but Jackson's new omelet intern told us he was out of spaghetti. Now in America, this would have been crushing news. Or actually, in America this probably wouldn't have happened, because in America they worry about pesky little things like 'customer service' and generally order enough supplies to see themselves through the day. But whatever. I am not bitter, because I may not be in America, but Cameroon is not without its culinary advantages. Certainly in America you are not allowed to say 'Mais la femme là-bas a le spaghetti. Il faut lui demander'. And certainly in America the omelet intern would not then go over to the lady next door and, USING HIS HANDS, take some of her spaghetti for us. Mmm, spaghetti omelets. You people don't even know the value. (Grandmaster Flash, that was for you. Hi!)

* * *

Working Relationships. After a pleasant brunch, Kate and I headed out to Mefoup, one of the villages outside of Ebolowa. (I like to think of them as suburbs because it's hilarious but probably only to me because I live here but trust me—comic GOLD) We were supposed to give a presentation to a group of farmers on the magical properties of soy. Kate talks about the advantages for the soil and I talk about the nutritional benefits. For example, did you know that one kilo of soy has the same amount of protein as three kilo's of beef? C'est incroyable, n'est pas? And let me tell you, harvesting soy is a lot less messy than butchering a cow. Although I'm sorry, I personally can't get behind soymilk. Drinking beans freaks me out. I try not to judge others though. Where I come from that will get you kicked right out of the coffee house. Oh dear, it's seems I have digressed. I'll be honest—I can be a bit of a digresser as a rule. I apologize. Soy! Farmers! So we went, at 14:00, because that's when Kate had set up the meeting for. Only when we got there, there was just one old woman on the porch. Because for some reason all the farmers thought we were going to be there in the morning, not in the afternoon. So they had all left hours ago. A disappointment, but truthfully—not an entirely unexpected one here in the Dirty South. Meetings rarely go as planned. But that is not the point of this rambling, practically incoherent story. The point of the story is this—we left that house with a live chicken in a bag! The woman had planned on preparing the chicken for the meeting, but since we so rudely showed up four hours late, she just kept it and gave it to us. Fan-fricking-tastic. I never received live poultry after meetings at my old job. One time I got this cute little notebook and pen set, but that was a total fluke.

* * *

Getting Rides. (Side note to all parents, and other people who are generally inclined towards worry—none of what follows is considered weird here, or dangerous. It is not hitchhiking, which I would never do because I've seen those movies and I know what happens to girls to hitchhike, the hussies. It is simply a system of transportation that involves flagging down random vehicles in order to convey oneself from one location to another. OK?) We took a cab out to Mefoup (and by cab I mean one of the seemingly endless supply of Toyotas held together with wire and hope) so we needed to flag down another cab to get us back. Only there didn't seem to be a lot of cabs going by, so we started walking in the direction of Ebolowa. Only it was the middle of the afternoon so it was REALLY FREAKING HOT. No worries. We'll just walk up to a complete stranger’s house and ask to sit on their (mercifully shaded) porch for a bit. AND THIS WILL BE CONSIDERED PERFECTLY NORMAL. It will also be considered perfectly normal for two old women to come out of the house and stare at us. And I mean STARE. Hello! We are just a couple of zany American girls trying to stay out of the sun! Thank you for letting us sit on your porch, and no, we don't mind at all if you stare at us in a what might be considered a maniacal manner without blinking for five minutes straight! Would you like to look at the live chicken we've got in this bag? At first, whenever we would hear a car approaching Hans (Kate's co-worker—he often comes with us to translate our presentations into Bulu) would run out to the road and try to flag it down. Four cars passed him without stopping. So I tried. Four more cars passed! Of all the nerve! I mean honestly, sometimes when I'm just walking down the road cars will pull up alongside me randomly and try to convince me to get in. (Because in addition to being white, I also apparently appear both easy and stupid.) But now, in our moment of need, I can't get a car to save my life. Clearly, this was a job for a blond. Sure enough, Kate was able to get a car to stop—although I was gratified that two passed her before one finally pulled over. The chicken in the bag went into the trunk (and by 'trunk' I mean the space under the hatchback door that didn't latch) and we climbed into the car. Which at this point already held four other people. We drove about 50 feet, and then pulled over to pick up an old man and his 3 large bags of plantains. So now there were eight people, three bags of plantains, and one bag of (live) chicken in the car. Perhaps I've misled you into thinking we were in a station wagon with my mention of the hatchback. No, we were in something that resembled a Geo. Four people in the back, four people in the front. In Cameroon, not even the driver gets his own seat. And all the cars at stick-shifts. Ha-zing! I probably don't need to mention that perceptions of personal space are a little different here. Mostly because the concept of personal space doesn't exist. Bon voyage!

* * *

Lying. I lie to people constantly, and for a variety of reasons. Sometimes it’s because a strange man is hitting on me and I think it prudent to mention that I already have two husbands, and that my father requires at least 15 goats for my dowry. Sometimes its because I don't know how to say whatever it is that I actually want to say, so I just say something else. Something completely different and also maybe completely untrue but also more easily expressed in French. For instance, I might say that in America men do all the laundry and cooking. Technically, perhaps, this is not true. But it's easier than explaining that in the States gender roles are quite blurred due to the dramatic social changes that took place in the 70s and 80s and as a result domestic chores are distributed based on a complex and continuous process of discussion and experimentation throughout the lifetime of any relationship. Also it blows their minds when I say it, and that is kind of fun. And finally, sometimes I end up lying completely by accident, because of my habit of just saying 'oui' whenever I don't understand what is being said to me. I'm pretty sure I've told a number of people that they could come to my house for dinner, and not once did I actually mean it. It's possible I've also accepted a number of marriage proposals, but even with the abundance of rock-hard abs in this country, I don't actually plan on walking down the aisle with anyone. At least not at this point in time.

* * *

Monday, April 28, 2008

What's New, What's New

What's new, what's new…I have had an incredibly busy past 2 weeks…so a lot I guess! I'll start with all my recent fun transportation in Cameroon stories! In one week I had about as many travel problems as I can hope to ever rack up in such a short period of time…2 breakdowns of buses between Ebolowa and Yaoundé in the same week. The first one occurred right as it was getting dark, we broke down in an area without cell phone reception, and everyone on the bus was in "I hate white people mode". We ended up having to wait 4 hours, during which I tried to win over the bus population by using key bulu phrases such as "Ma kobo bulu tchithcoi" (I speak a little bulu) when they were saying things about me they thought I couldn't understand. After which the volunteer I was traveling with and myself got white people privileges and got to hop on a bus before everyone else, which I'm sure reverted the bus to I hate white people mode once more! The second break down occurred 4 days later, this time only 30 km from Yaoundé, and it took 3 hours for the replacement bus to be sent! I made a friend during this time that later really helped me out getting a taxi and a decent price at night in the city…which is pretty iffy at best! In addition to the break downs I foolishly forgot my ID card while going to work an hour away one day. The first stop by gendarmes (police…they stop cars constantly at roadblocks they set up to "check ID cards"…it's a very pointless process that increases travel time drastically and is really only used to pad their own pockets) went fine and I got waved through with a look of disapproval. On the way back from work I was with my supervisor and another man I work with…we got stopped…I tried my "I'm stupid and left my card at home excuse" and the gendarme started shaking his head disapprovingly. This for some reason infuriated the man I work with and he stood up, started yelling, gendarme was screaming at him, no one was listening to me, I was almost crying…big buff men in uniforms with large automatic weapons freak me out…eventually he called over HIS supervisor who took one look at me and told everyone "yeah I know her, she's the white girl who lives at Ngalane"…thus lessons learned: 1)living at a police barrier has it's perks, 2)DON'T forget your ID card at any time 3)don't yell at scary men with guns.

Two weeks ago I had my week long IST (in service training) in Bamenda, in the Northwest Province. It was a pretty intense week, time consuming mainly…11 hours a day of being locked away in a hotel for meetings…most of which were things we'd gone over already or things that once again weren't exactly applicable to us volunteers in the still forested part of the country (this has irked me continuously during trainings and frustrated me to no end when actually trying to figure out how to get work started…) We did get to do two mornings of "field work", namely, visits to two different agro forestry centers that really had their stuff together and were incredibly beautiful places. Aside from the meeting/frustration aspect for me, it was really really wonderful to see all the volunteers from the agro training group who I hadn't seen since going to post in December. Not a single one of us has left the program since we all met in Philly, and I'm pretty sure this is some kind of record…all 22 of us still in for the long haul! It's a really good dynamic within the group and there are several people who continuously give me sanity and perspective…thus leaving was once again the hard part! However, after IST I went to a village near Baffousam in the West province for a quick stay at my good friend's place with a few other people…I had intended on going back to Bangangte to try to visit my home stay family, but ended up being scheduled for meetings in Yaoundé the next day so had to leave the West. The next 4 days I had meetings in Yaoundé, to be a "contact volunteer"…so when the country falls apart my post mate and I are responsible for getting a hold of everyone in the South province and then they all get to come hide out at our houses. I also had meetings for the Environmental Education Committee, which I just joined. The latter made me feel the most productive, and it was a lot of sharing of ideas and whatnot. Another girl in the South and I are going to write up something for the Environ. Edu. Manual on medicinal plants and bush meat. We are also, this is the grand idea, going to organize a 100 km bike tour (clearly ending at the beach in Kribi) in the South where we leisurely ride along and stop at villages to discuss environmental issues…big goal…but they do this in the North to discuss AIDS…so we are going to adapt it! :>) Another great idea we talked about while all together is the band…we have a gig!!! (I'm never saying that again, I feel like a weirdo…I got to use something like "performance" or maybe "musical presentation experience"?! ha-ha, ok, no better), but anyways, I think it'll be in November in the Northwest, and we're going to raise money for some farmers organization my friend works with up there…I'm excited for that!

Back home…coming home was weird…kind of hard in a few ways, but I did miss my house, my immediate neighbors, Obam, Hans…etc… My little neighbor has taken to picking bouquets of flowers for me (and for any other volunteers that come to visit)…so she picked me a huge one right when I got back. I also was greeted with the news that my soccer team won the finals match! Which is a big deal…and I couldn't be there for it, so got scolded. I had gone to the semi finals match before I left…let me tell you, still awkward. Whenever the guys scored a goal they would all run over to me, kneel on the ground and kiss my feet! I took to hiding my head behind my friend’s back like a 5 year old and giggling like a middle schooler. Then my neighbor, Billy, told me he is going to be sure we have the jerseys made for summer vacation (when the soccer tournaments start over and apparently get really intense)…they will say "Wisconsin Badgers" on the back (which still no one can pronounce, or for that matter even remember) and then worst of all he's putting "KATE" on the front in big letters…nope…no self promotion there at all! I also had a great conversation with my landlord's son, who is my new best friend…since while discussing culture and racism he told me that he would never marry a white girl, and would not marry me no matter what…WOOHOO!!! Never have I heard such a thing out of a guy's mouth in this country, so thus, we are best friends ;>)

Lastly, work wise not a whole lot has happened around Ebolowa since I've been in and out so much the past few weeks. I did finish planting soy and beans and corn at the farm far south of Ebolowa; saw a water source in need of improvement there, which my supervisor wants me to make a secondary project. Upon return from Yaoundé we had an apiculture (bee keeping) training session in a village right near my house. It was REALLY interesting and I learned a lot…it got dark before we could finish though, so we're planning on having another where we finish building the rouge (bee hive/box whatever thing) in early May. So…that's about all! But one last thing of major importance...my parents are coming to visit!!! They'll be here starting the end of July for 3 weeks and we're looking into trying to go somewhere else to do something very touristy...like a safari or whatnot. So that's definitely something to look forward to! The power just went out, so I must quickly get off my post mate’s computer before I use up all the reserve battery!

Wednesday, April 9, 2008

I'm working my fingers to the bone!

Hi! Sorry it's been an incredibly long time since I last wrote...and much has happened since then! Work wise things picked up the past week, I have spend 2 wednesdays planting soy with a small group of women, and getting massive blisters which I display to all my neighbors with pride and then tell them I must work harder than them because I have more injury...sometimes they belive me :^) planting here is backbreaking work, that is for sure, and I'm worn out after a little over an hour each time...but for my labors i receive compliments such as "wow, you are solid" which I enjoy. I spent another Wednesday with the health volunteer near me giving a soy formation (presentation) and although I was scared to death it was really nice to have her help me. Hans also came and translated everything into boulou, so I think we did a relatively good job. People were taking notes and we made them summarize what we had presented...it seemed like a lot learned...I suggested a cooking class after we harvest the soy in addition to the formation as well. 2 Thursdays ago I had a meeting with an NGO in Ngoulemakong, 45 min north, FONJAK. I was REALLY impressed, very organized, environmental conservation and scientific minded...all things I dont see too much of! They even had a copy of 'An Inconvenient Truth' in French...so that told me a lot. Also very nice people, so I'm hoping to try to start working with them. That Saturday I had a "meeting" (aka drink 1.5 liters of pop and a glass of red wine while sitting at a bar for 4 hours with 6 million people) with Hans and the Leo, the man who I visited in his village a month or so ago, and I will be planting soy and beans with some women in his village this Saturday, and we'll be looking to start a fish pond there possibly. Lastly, I went to a metting with the women of my village, Ngalane, and am trying to get them to start a soy field with me also...one lady has become my friend at the market and is always firing Boulou at me rapidly and relentlessly.

At home I didn't have power for a solid week, which was really only annoying because I couldnt charge my cell phone, and thus did not have an alarm clock! I entertained myself one night by watching a fly keep buzzing buzzing buzzing around my candle flame until it lit itself on fire and fell to a noisy death in flames on my floor. I went to the 'Wisconsin Badgers' first soccer game 2 weeks ago, and let me tell you...it was awkward! Billy introduced me as the president of the team (made worse by the fact they were all a bunch of teenage boys), everyone applauded, then a bunch of dudes ran off the field midgame to shake my hand immediately upon scoring a goal. I always use the kids to make myself feel less awkward. For example, when they brought me a chair; pretty much a throne, to the sidelines and made me sit in it while everyone else stood around, I made 3 kids share it with me and we built stick houses on the ground. Although, not a good idea to not pay attention to the game because I had to ask if MY team won at the end...whoops...i've never been a sports watching fanatic. After the game my landlord and Billy came to my door offering an enourmous glass full of whisky, which I denied by telling them I would die if I drank it!

I had a site visit with the Peace Corps nurse...and I have to say, I never had and don't think I ever will have a job where they ask you things such as "have you been drunk in country" and "how do you flush your toilet" and expect answers! My postmate and I went out to dinner with the nurse and the PC driver and then, EXCITING, the shelf man was out along side the street and PC drove me home with shelf number 2!!! moving up in the world...now my clothes are off the floor; and not molding! Since the start of the official rainy season I've been enjoying the market...TONS of fruit, including mangos, pineapple, bannanas, watermelon, papaya; guava...and prices are ridiculous (compared to this type of fruit in wisconsin) example, I just bought 12 mangos for 500 cfa, so a little over a dollar...I love it! We've also had lettuce, avacados, zucchini and eggplant regularily...an avacado is 50-100 cfa...so what like under 20 cents...wonderful!!!

So, thats all that's been going on lately! I need to regain my enthusiasm for writing on here; and you people should ASK ME QUESTIONS to motivate me!
Hope all's well!

Monday, March 24, 2008

Grub from Grubs

Happy St. Patty's Day and Easter all…weird weird weird with every passing holiday!

First and foremost I HAVE RUNNING WATER IN MY HOUSE!!! Granted there are a few problems: toilet doesn't work, no bathroom sink, water is nasty brown color…but hey…I love it! SOOOO exciting to wash my face from a faucet instead of a cup, and I haven't yet used my shower (the water's been cut 2 of the 3 days I've had it) but am very very excited for my first non-bucket bath in my house! I'll be honest though I'm going to miss going to get water, it was always at least something to do and gave people a better opinion of me as the not so weak white girl. Plus I will miss the bonding time with my dear water buddy Michelle.

Secondly, I wanted to preface this post by saying that I am feeling sort of at a lack of stories. My life here has become just that, my life, not as interesting to myself as you all tell me it is and not something I myself always deem worth writing about…and although I've always been good for the telling of pointless stories, I don't want to be boring to all of you! Therefore I wanted to ask if you have any questions about stuff here. Things I haven't included that you've been wondering about, things you want to hear more about, etc…You can also tell me to stop repeating myself so often and that you are sick of stories about insects or whatever if you feel the need. :>) If so it'd be great if you could post them as a comment to this post, and I'll periodically check and progressively respond to them all. If you don't want to post it on here, email me: kate.legner@gmail.com.

Last weekend I spent a bit of time with the volunteer a bit north of me, we did some research for my soy presentation (which, by the way, has been postponed till next week….of course, but I made a pretty sweet poster and game) and I enjoyed my time with her as I always do. Her counterpart forced me to eat Fausse (not sure how to spell this)…which are grubs on a stick. Horrible horrible texture, to all those of you who say the texture of tofu is bad, eat a grub. Also horrible horrible texture when it gets stuck in your teeth and re-enjoyed 2 hours later…gross gross gross…definitely gave me credibility when I told my neighbors about it though and now they have offered to also prepare me crickets, because oh, I love eating bugs.

Here in Ebolowa, I've started taking Boulou classes with the counterpart of my postmate. I've had 2 now, and they are quite intense. I have difficulty with language always and taking a one on one class in French to learn Boulou is tricky tricky. I used my knowledge to tell my neighbors I was going into town and they were SOOOO happy, cheering, etc…but now they think they can speak to me in Boulou at all times, which causes some interesting conversations:

neighbor: "blah blee boulou blah"
me: "eh?! Ma ké sicolo." Translation: "what? I'm going to school"
neighbor: "Téké. Bleh bloo blah" Translation: "no. Bleh bloo blah"
me: "bye" Translation: "oh my gosh I don't understand anything you say ever I'm leaving"

Other things in village: I was forced into an hour long conversation with my landlady about Jehovah…I was honest with her and shared with her my feelings on things, etc…but she's still convinced she's going to change my mind and wants to sit down and read the bible with me…even though I told her several times I really didn't want to. This was even after I tried to buy her love and forgiveness by knitting her a potholder with a heart on it. Haha… I've also been cross stitching like a fiend, and still finding it awkward that within 5 minutes of me sitting out on my bench on my porch I have an entire gaggle of children standing around me just watching me with great interest. A few days ago though one kid brought over his own needle and thread and was fixing shoes on my porch with me… I have officially named the youth soccer team the Wisconsin Badgers, and my neighbor Billy is checking into getting jerseys made…that say "Wisconsin Badgers", though I forgot to tell him the appropriate colors, I requested one also. The Ngalane men's soccer team had their first game yesterday…I ended up going. It went something like this: little neighbor girl asks if I'm going, I say "sure, a soccer game, what the heck else do I have to do" (I say this in Boulou obviously, haha, JUST KIDDING), Michelle my water buddy screams, jumps up and down with this news, and then proceeds to be my constant companion all night, half the village piles into 2 vehicles, I clearly get the place of honor in the front of the car while about 30 people pile into one van…we go to a village a half hour north of Ebolowa, watch the game, I get mauled by mosquitos, the people who don't know me yell things at me, I back talk, we pile back in the 2 cars drive 3 minutes, get out, everyone gets handed pieces of sugar cane at some random house, I of course get an ENTIRE cane which is far taller than me, we go into the house, I have to sit in a chair, everyone gets a spoon and eats something out of a big pot, 2 minutes later we all run out, pile back in, and off we go!

It was pretty fantastic however since everyone we were with from my village did the utmost in protecting me and making sure I wasn't left behind…it was really really nice and I felt like not so much of an outsider…no matter what I looked like to the other village there. I had a similar feeling when I was coming through the village where the volunteer lives north of me on my way back from Yaounde a while ago. We had stopped at the barrier and I was in a big bus next to the window. I heard someone yelling my name over and over…and way up on a hill next to the road was one of the little girls in the village who always comes to talk with the other volunteer and I. It's such a good feeling to be known by name and recognized like that, instead of just always being the anonymous white girl.

The rainy season is in full swing, and this means power and water cuts constantly. Oddly enough, I have come to look forward to the power being cut around 7 most nights because this means no Cameroonian pop music blasting behind my bedroom until 2 AM and picking back up at 6 AM on the dot. I light my candle, read a book, then go to sleep to crickets instead…quite nice. The rain also means my running has taken a bit of a blow. Now my route choices are as follows 1)harassment on pavement into town or 2)scenic forest with 20 extra pounds of mud on my feet. So far I've chosen the mud, but almost killed myself sliding down hills, and have almost wanted to kill myself from the extra mud stress! Don't take that seriously. I also took a really muddy back road into town one day just because I had heard that that's where it went…I told Obam this and he thought it was hilarious that I would do something like that just because, and he himself had never been down this road (even though it is about 1/4 mile away from his office and right near his village)…I always think it's crazy how people here think I'm so crazy for doing things like: going for walks, finding things outside like cool rocks or whatever, and even reading…
Work has been as usual, I worked with the soy "group" on Wednesday and we finished clearing the field, and now will be planting this Wednesday. I have a meeting with an organization in Ngoulemakong (where the girl is north of me) this next Thursday and am really interested in what they do and hoping (with all my fingers, and toes if possible, crossed) that I'll get to work with them…they really have their stuff together and the woman I've been in contact with is Anglophone. Other than that, Obam's been getting a little bit too laid back about stuff in my opinion, and I created these calendars that I'm going to force him to sit down and fill up with ideas of things we can do…hoping this will spark some kind of work…

Thanks for reading as always and post me questions!!!

Thursday, March 13, 2008

AHHH A swimming pool

It's been a relatively busy past week and a half! At home I've spent a lot of time waiting around for the plumbers and watching them tear up several of my walls and floor (I really wanted to do this part, they just went nuts with a big hammer). Sadly I just got stuck doing the clean up after the plumbers stole my only cleaning rag! But… I do not yet have water because the pipe to the bathroom sink is just a gapping hole…so in theory I could open the main valve and sprint to my bathroom to catch the spray from the pipe in a bucket, then sprint outside and turn it off…I'm almost thinking I just prefer the walk to the source! My neighbor flowerman has been in top form lately, I had flowers in every room of the house: kitchen, living room, bedroom AND bathroom! He also added another plant to my porch and told me his idea is to fill the ENTIRE porch with plants…he's got one side of the house down, 2 to go! I do however feel a bit guilty since he makes my little neighbor girls carry the water for all of these plants… My landlady found mushrooms somewhere at the market, huge delicious ones and gave me a lot…the second time I've gotten to eat them here, and this time not out of a can! Very very exciting. Lastly, house wise, I had my first mouse/rat entry. Somewhere between the hours of 8:00-9:00pm on Wednesday, March 6, I set foot in my kitchen simply to brush my teeth, little did I know there would be an enormous mouse/small rat (I haven't decided yet but definitely bigger than a mouse) freaking out when it saw me. I almost had a heart attack because obviously it scared me as much as I scared it, but I watched it from the safety of the doorway to see where it would go. In it's insanity it ran into the wall at top speed and did a backflip, which lightened the mood a bit, and then squeezed out under the crack under my door. He has not been back!

In the neighborhood, I decided I wouldn't put up with the random guys around yelling things at me. So I started yelling things at them, including the harsh insults like "You are impolite!" Due to this I made friends with a neighbor woman who was happy I said it because "that guy bothers everyone". My one neighbor man has enlisted my help with the naming of the town soccer team, he told me it should be something from my home, so yep, Wisconsin Badgers…eh, what else!? :>) Lastly under this topic of discussion, I was sitting on the steps of the small deli in town waiting for my postmate and friend, and a little girl (7 or 8) came up and handed me a coin. Now, these steps are usually where the poor/homeless people in town come to beg because it's considered one of the "white mans stores" (aka expensive)…but what?! Never so far in my life in this country has someone given ME money because they thought I was poor! It was the cutest thing…but I returned the money to her with lots of "Mercis".

Travel wise, I got to go to Yaounde Thursday thru Sunday and saw a LOT of people from my training group that I haven't gotten to see in far too long. We did amazing things like going swimming at the Hilton pool (which was incredible…just swimming period, but the place was soo soo nice), getting drinks at the Hilton happy hour roof top bar on the company tab of an old volunteer who was in Yaounde for business, going to a Rasta drumming show where I used my tambourine skills…it was all around a very excellent and real vacation!

Work wise, I have started working with my supervisor's nephew, who lives in a village a 45 min walk from my house. We had a meeting this past Monday, attended by 15 people (this is a TON) and then this Wednesday I met them in the field to help clear the land after it'd been burned (moving burned up sticks and grass clumps from ground to large pile for 2 hrs). We are going to be planting soy beans next Wednesday…so if anyone has any information on this, send it my way. I have no clue! I have to do some research. I also, next Wednesday, have to give a small training session to these people on soy, nutrition, usage…etc…and although I spent way too much time being excited about Tofu (you who know me know this to sadly be true) and eating it in all forms in the States, I don't know many concrete, easy to explain things about the soy bean itself. SOOO…this will be interesting, but I am really really excited (along with nervous) to give a presentation and feel like I accomplished some tangible thing. I like the nephew a lot, he's worked with several Peace Corps Volunteers and gets it when I try to explain how I'm thinking/feeling about something. On of his neighbor girls who worked with us was friendly, and my age, which together hasn't been common…so she now has my phone number and we are apparently planning her a birthday party in…November…?!

Missing everyone!

Friday, March 7, 2008

Pictures from Ebolowa

My neighbor boy, Dorien, we have high five and waving contests.
aka: BEST BUDS
The goat that lurks around habitually,
notice his poo on my porch.
A beautiful grasshopper ... Wow I love my camera!
We hiked up to one of the big hills in Ebolowa and this is the view away
from the city. Foggy picture and I'll try again.
Flowers my neighbor Billy gave me.
Biggest spider in the world.

My neighbor Billy's farm. Billy & kids are just visible.
Deforestation!

Weird run down resort on my way home, has a lake with boat house, hotel/bar
building and this bizarre & creepy statue.
What most street look like when it rains here.
Me in the woods when we kinda got lost.
Notice my hiking apparell.



Catholic Mission on the way to my house. I
never realized it was this enormous until I explored it!

Tuesday, March 4, 2008

RIOTS & MAYHEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Alright, I'm going to start with the recent situation here, not the best of news, but as of now everything is calming down and we are all feeling pretty positive that all will return to normal shortly! Not sure how much has been in the news in the states (I'm guessing very little), so I will be your Cameroonian news source! Last Monday/Tuesday things started to get a little iffy in Douala, Yaounde, and a few of the provinces in the western part of the country. I think things initially started because gas prices rose (and here any little bit affects them a lot more ultimately than I think it would us in the states), followed by a price rise in a few goods, such as the price increase of 50 CFA on bread. Not sure how one thing led to another but a few strikes and riots broke out in the aforementioned places, as far as I know 17 people were killed in Douala, people were marching in Bafoussam (in the West) burning boutiques for demonstrations etc., and most transport agencies around the country were closed due to roadblocks. In my province, the South, there was no sign whatsoever of any problems, only a 100 CFA more expensive taxi ride out to my house and lines at the gas stations due to the gas shortage/prices, which is actually not at all uncommon. So my post mate, another volunteer in the South and I have spent the last week being torn between messages from fellow volunteers in the affected areas, messages from the Peace Corps administration (telling us to pack our emergency bag in case we would need to quickly be evacuated), and the lack of problems we've noticed here. It's been only rough mentally for us, trying to believe one day that we're going home for certain and the next morning being told that everything is calming down. It's so weird to think that potentially I could have not seen a single problem in the country yet be forced to leave before I've really accomplished anything! So...interesting week. I know a few people have mentioned they're worried about me, but please take this as my way to inform (with the little I really know :>)) and get things written down truthfully, and that when I say I feel perfectly safe and sound that I'm being honest! I'm sure there are much more dangerous places to be in the US right now!

It's been nice to have the other volunteer staying with us here in Ebolowa for a while. She's the other Agro forestry volunteer in the South, so we met up a few times with Hans my supervisor and discussed some work related info. And did a little tour of the market with him. Obam has his motto fixed, but then was without gas, so we haven't gone anywhere for over a week now. I'm going to get pushy this week about planning some meetings, etc. with both Hans and Obam...so watch out! :>) The other volunteer and I did some exploring out around my house, aka getting lost in the woods. We walked out into the forest, me thinking that the trail would lead to a road I sort of knew the location of, but over an hour later and we finally made the call to turn around, and then after a few tries found our way back. I took some pretty incredible pictures of bugs, which I’m overly excited about and will definitely post for all of you to enjoy as well,count on it! It was nice to have her around to go exploring, because that is definitely something I don't think I can do out in the middle of the forest alone! We also went to the bank because I noticed that money was randomly (and RAPIDLY) leaving my account. I demanded a statement ("give me a list of money in the account"), filled out 3 different transaction slips, signing each at least twice (I don't understand their system), received my statement and proceeded to yell in broken French "this is too expensive, you did not tell me, you are taking my money"! After a bit of time and after everyone near me in the bank had stopped to observe me (which, hey, that happens pure and simply upon my entry into the establishment.) the bank man explains to me that here it apparently costs (close to 10 dollars USD,.that is way to much in the states!) each MONTH just to have an account, and proceeded to laugh at me saying "ahahahah Legnar, Legnar, hahahaha". Oh well, the next day I saw the bank man on the street and he was back to kissing my cheeks, no hard feelings.

Things with my neighbors are good as usual. I received 8 bananas from my neighbor girl that was previously angry at me, and at least 20 from Obam, trust me, I will have no problems with potassium any time soon. So I've been working on ways to use them all up, including making banana bread. The first batch I distributed among the neighbors and everyone really liked it a lot (which is kind of unusual, most often any food we've tried to prepare for them is received by a look of disgust, little do they know their food is actually the grosser ;>)) so my neighbor requested my recipe for his birthday 2 days later. I offered just to make it for him, and he was very excited to receive it...he said "thank you" in English, if that exemplifies anything?! He then gave us a big piece of fish head to enjoy, and some palm wine, even steven. My landlady and landlord both just got back from Yaounde (they had been stuck there due to lack of buses running) and I am told she has pieces to fix my water problem...I hope! Although there's been no shortage of rain the past few days, and thus no lack of the resultant lake in my kitchen! I need to figure out a way to direct kitchen flood water directly to flush the toilet...

Hope you're all doing well, and please be rest assured that I AM FINE!!! :>) (but sometimes sickeningly honest).